Cambodia, Siem Reap Angkor
For
many travelers, the ‘lost city’ of Angkor is the reason
for visiting Cambodia. Considering that the Kingdom of
Angkor is one of the greatest wonders of the ancient
world, it’s not hard to understand why. Make no mistake
about it, the Angkor temples are a ‘must see’ South East
Asian tourist attraction and you’ll be making a big
mistake if you don’t even visit them for just one day.
Abandoned in the 15th century, the whole city was
largely forgotten for hundreds of years until French
naturalist, Henri Mouhot, published an account of his
exploration to Angkor in 1860. This successfully managed
to stir a considerable amount of western interest in the
jungle temples. So much so that in 1908 a huge effort
began to clear away the jungle vegetation that was
slowly destroying the ruins and restore the temples to
something like their former glory. This continues to
this day (although was stopped in the mid 1970’s due to
the rise of the Khmer Rouge and the eventual civil war).
When
visiting the temples, try and in keep in mind that
during the 9th to 13th centuries, the Angkor Kingdom
(meaning capital or holy city) in Cambodia was the
largest, most powerful and prosperous nation in South
East Asia.
This
was principally due to its first King, Jayaverman II,
who kicked-off the Angkorian era in 802AD and ruled for
48 years. Jayavarman was a warrior, who after returning
to Cambodia from Java, managed to subdue enough Khmer
rival states to declare one sovereign kingdom under his
rule. He also declared a ‘god king’ rite and legitimized
his power through the setting up of a ‘royal linga
worshipping cult’ which remained central to Angkorian
kingship, religion, art and architecture for centuries.
Thirty
years after his death, Indravarman II decided to
construct Preah Ko, the first member of the Roluos
Group, in honour of Jayavarman II. Shortly after, he
constructed Bakong, which marked the beginning of grand
temple building that lasted for centuries, and was also
responsible for the first large baray (water reservoir).
The three defining characteristics -- the linga-cult,
temple construction and reservoir building -- of the
Angkor Kingdom had been established.
Many
great temples were then built over the proceeding
centuries including the most famous, Angkor Wat, which
was constructed by King Suryavarmman II in the first
half of the 12th century. Today, Angkor Wat is one of
the greatest religious monuments in the world, and the
remarkable masterpiece continues to attract and amaze
visitors to this day.
During
the second half of the 12th century, battle losses
against neighboring rivals, uprisings in the provinces
and internal infighting brought turmoil to the Angkor
kingdom. In 1165, a usurper, Tribhuvanadityyavarman,
took full advantage of the chaos and seized power at
Angkor. He remained in control for twelve years until he
was killed right in the heart of the capital by the Cham
(a neighboring Indianised state from south central
Vietnam) which had successfully invaded and conquered
Angkor thanks to a covert navel attack via the Tonle Sap
River in 1177. After four years of occupation, the most
famous Angkor king, Jayavarman VII, managed to force the
Cham out of Cambodia through a series of successful
counterattacks.
Not
long after, Jayavarman VII, who ruled until 1220, went
on a series of military campaigns that extended the
Khmer empire to Malaysia in the south, to the borders of
Myanmar in the west, Laos in the north and even central
Vietnam. It was also Jayavarman VII who abandoned
Hinduism (which had been the state religion since its
inception) for Mahayana Buddhism. But it is his
incredible grand temple building for which he his best
remembered and is indeed responsible for most of the
most interesting constructions seen around Angkor
(including three of the four most famous: Bayon, Ta
Prohm and Preah Khan).
Despite
his achievements, Jayavarmen VII’s death actually marked
the end of grandiose temple building. His successor,
Indravarman III, continued some of the temple
construction left unfinished by Jayavarmen VII but the
age of grand temple building was finally over.
In
fact, the long reign of Jayavarman VIII in the late 13th
century appears to have signaled the beginning of the
end of the Angkor Kingdom. It suffered an invasion for
the first time from the Mongols in 1283 and was facing
repeated attacks by the Thai’s from the west. It was
also Jayavarman VIII who reverted the kingdom back to
Hinduism. This led to most of Jayavarmen VII’s Buddhist
monuments being defaced and Hindu images crudely put
into their places. Following Jayavarman VIII abdication
in favor of his brother in law, Crindravarman, Theravada
Buddhism was adopted (probably due to pressure from
Siam) and this remains the Cambodian state religion to
this day.
The
reign of Crindravarman ended in 1327 and after this
date, little is known about the final years of the
Angkor Kingdom. But what is definite is that King Ponhea
Yat moved the capital from Angkor to Phnom Penh in 1432
following a long drawn out siege from the Thais (it
later migrated to Lovek and Oudong). Nevertheless, it is
important to note that, although Angkor stopped being
the capital and was largely left to the jungle, some
sites around the complex have never been fully abandoned
as people imagine. Indeed, the reason for why Angkor Wat
is so well preserved today is principally thanks to
Buddhist pilgrims continually maintaining it throughout
the centuries.
Be that
as it may, the Angkor complex has gone through many
periods of ‘rediscovery’ on the part of Cambodian kings,
and western explorers and missionaries. In 1550, it was
‘rediscovered’ for the first time by King Ang Cham while
hunting. The King was apparently so impressed with what
he saw that he moved his Court there (although the
capital remained in Lovek). This ended in 1594 when the
region of Angkor was conquered by Thailand.
Angkor
was occasionally ‘rediscovered’ by Portuguese and
Spanish explorers and missionaries in the 16th to 19th
centuries. Meanwhile, Father Charles-Emile Bouillevaux
published the first modern account of Angkor in 1857.
But it was naturalist Henri Mouhot’s book, Travels in
Siam, Cambodia, Laos and Annam that led to notable
western interest in the temples and the first
restoration expedition in 1908 from France (the country
most credited for restoration work undertaken around
Angkor).
Ak Yum
Late 8th - Early 11th
Hinduism
A visually unimpressive but archaeologically
important ruin. The earliest elements date from the pre-Angkorian
8th century, though inscriptions indicate that a temple
dedicated to the Hindu ‘god of the depths’ was
previously located on the same spot. Ak Yom is the
earliest known example of the 'mountain-temple'
architectural design formula, which was to become a
primary design formula for many of the Angkorian period
temples including Angkor Wat..
Angkor Thom
Late 12th - Early 13th
Buddhism
Jayavarman VII
Bayon
Angkor Thom (Big Angkor) is a 3km2 walled and moated
royal city and was the last capital of the Angkorian
empire. After Jayavarman VII recaptured the Angkorian
capital from the Cham invaders in 1181, he began a
massive building campaign across the empire,
constructing Angkor Thom as his new capital city. He
began with existing structures such as Baphuon and
Phimeanakas and built a grand enclosed city around them,
adding the outer wall/moat and some of Angkor's greatest
temples including his state-temple, Bayon, set at the
center of the city. There are five entrances (gates) to
the city, one for each cardinal point, and the victory
gate leading to the Royal Palace area. Each gate is
crowned with 4 giant faces. The South Gate is often the
first stop on a tour of the temples.
Angkor wat
Early - Mid 12th
Hinduism
Suryavarman II
Angkor wat
Angkor Wat is visually, architecturally and artistically
breathtaking. It is a massive three-tiered pyramid
crowned by five beehive-like towers rising 65 meters
from ground level. Angkor Wat is the centerpiece of any
visit to the temples of Angkor.
At the apex of Khmer political and military dominance in
the region, Suryavarman II constructed Angkor Wat in the
form of a massive 'temple-mountain' dedicated to the
Hindu god, Vishnu. It served as his state temple, though
the temple’s uncommon westward orientation has led some
to suggest that it was constructed as Suryavarman II’s
funerary temple. Other temples of the same style and
period include Thommanon, Banteay Samre, Wat Atwea and
Beng Melea, which may have served as a prototype to
Angkor Wat.
Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat and an exterior wall
measuring 1300 meters x 1500 meters. The temple itself
is 1 km square and consists of three levels surmounted
by a central tower. The walls of the temple are covered
inside and out with bas-reliefs and carvings. Nearly
2000 distinctively rendered apsara carvings adorn the
walls throughout the temple and represent some of the
finest examples of apsara carvings in Angkorian era art.
But it is the exterior walls of the lower level that
display the most extraordinary bas-reliefs, depicting
stories and characters from Hindu mythology, and the
historical wars of Suryavarman II. It is in the viewing
of the bas-reliefs that a tour guide can be very
helpful.
The northern reflecting pool in front is the most
popular sunrise location. For sunrise, arrive very
early, well before sunrise begins. The sun will rise
behind Angkor Wat providing a silhouette of Angkor’s
distinctively shaped towers against a colored sunrise
sky. Some of the best colors appear just before the sun
breaks over the horizon.
The visual impact of Angkor Wat, particularly on one's
first visit, is awesome. As you pass through the outer
gate and get your first glimpse, its size and
architecture make it appear two dimensional, like a
giant postcard photo against the sky. After you cross
through the gate and approach the temple along the
walkway it slowly gains depth and complexity. To
maximize this effect you should make your first visit in
optimal lighting conditions, i.e. after 2:00PM. Do not
make your first visit to Angkor Wat in the morning when
the backlighting obscures the view.
The first level of the Angkor Wat is the most
artistically interesting. Most visitors begin their
exploration of the temple with the bas-reliefs that
cover the exterior wall of the first level, following
the bas-reliefs counterclockwise around the temple.
Bas-relief highlights include the mythological Battle of
Kuru on the west wall; the historical march of the army
of Suryavarman II, builder of Angkor Wat, against the
Cham, followed by scenes from Heaven and Hell on the
south wall; and the classic ‘Churning of the Ocean Milk’
on the north wall.
The temple interior is not as densely carved as the
first level exterior, but still sports hundreds of fine
carvings of apsaras and scenes from Hindu mythology.
Again, a guide can be quite helpful in explaining the
stories of the various chambers, statues and
architectural forms to be found in the interior. At the
upper-most of your tour of the temple, the central tower
on the third level houses four Buddha images, each
facing a different cardinal point, highlighting the fact
that though Angkor Wat was constructed as a Hindu
temple, it has served as a Buddhist temple since
Theravada Buddhism became Cambodia’s dominant religion
in the 14th century. Some say that it is good luck to
pay homage to all four Buddha images before departing
Angkor.
Banteay Kdei
Late 12th - Early 13th
Buddhist
Sprawling, largely unrestored, monastic complex in
much the same style as Ta Prohm. It was originally
constructed over the site of an earlier temple, and
functioned as a Buddhist monastery under Jayavarman VII.
As with other works of Jayavarman VII's era, it is a
tightly packed architectural muddle, which like Bayon,
suffered from several changes in the plans at the time
of construction. It was also built using an inferior
grade of sandstone and using poor construction
techniques, leading to much of the deterioration visible
today. A restoration project is underway on many of the
towers and corridors, and some areas are blocked off.
The foundation stele of the temple has not been found so
there is no record of to whom it is dedicated. The 13th
century vandalism of Buddha images that is seen on many
Jayavarman VII temples is quite apparent on Banteay Kdei.
Combine with a visit to Srah Srang, which is just
opposite the east entrance.
Banteay Samre
Mid 12th
Hinduism
Large, relatively flat temple about 3 km off of the
grand circuit, near the southeast corner of the East
Baray. The temple underwent extensive restoration this
century by archaeologists using the anastylosis method.
Banteay Samre was constructed around the same time as
Angkor Wat. The style of the towers and balustrades bear
strong resemblance to the towers of Angkor Wat and even
more so to Khmer temple of Phimai in Thailand. Many of
the carvings are in excellent condition. The trip there
is a nice little road excursion through villages and
paddies. Combine a visit to Banteay Srey with a stop at
Banteay Samre on the way back.
Banteay Srey
Late 10th
Hindu
Banteay Srey loosely translates to ‘citadel of the
women’, but this is a modern appellation that probably
refers to the delicate beauty of the carvings. Built at
a time when the Khmer Empire was gaining significant
power and territory, the temple was constructed by a
Brahmin counselor under a powerful king, Rajendravarman
and later under Jayavarman V. Banteay Srey displays some
of the finest examples of classical Khmer art. The walls
are densely covered with some of the most beautiful,
deep and intricate carvings of any Angkorian temple. The
temple's relatively small size, pink sandstone
construction and ornate design give it a fairyland
ambiance. The colors are best before 10:30 AM and after
2:00 PM, but there are fewer tourists in the afternoon.
This temple was discovered by French archaeologists
relatively late, in 1914. The temple area closes at 5:00
PM. Banteay Srey lies 38 km from Siem Reap, requiring
extra travel time. Drivers usually charge a fee in
addition to their normal daily charge for the trip.
Banteay Srey is well worth the extra effort. Combine a
visit to Banteay Srey with Banteay Samre.
Baphuon
Mid 11th
Hindu
Angkor Thom: Huge temple-mountain in the heart of Angkor
Thom. Largely collapsed and in ruined condition, the
main temple area is undergoing extensive restoration and
is not open to the public. The exterior entry gate and
elevated walkway are open. Note the unique animal
carvings at the walkway entrance, and the large
reclining Buddha on the west side, added to the temple
at a much later period.
Bayon
Late 12th
Buddhist
If you see only two temples, Angkor Wat and Bayon should
be the ones. The giant stone faces of Bayon have become
one of the most recognizable images connected to classic
Khmer art and architecture. There are 37 standing
towers, most but not all sporting four carved faces
oriented toward the cardinal points. Who the faces
represent is a matter of debate but they may be Loksvara,
Mahayana Buddhism's compassionate Bodhisattva, or
perhaps a combination of Buddha and Jayavar-man VII.
Bayon was the Jayavarman VII's state-temple and in many
ways represents the pinnacle of his massive building
campaign. It appears to be, and is to some degree, an
architectural muddle, in part because it was constructed
in a somewhat piecemeal fashion for over a century.
The best of Bayon are the bas-reliefs on the exterior
walls of the lower level and on the upper level where
the stone faces reside. The bas-reliefs on the southern
wall contain real-life scenes from the historical sea
battle between the Khmer and the Cham. It is not clear
whether this represents the Cham invasion of 1177AD or a
later battle in which the Khmer were victorious. Even
more interesting are extensive carvings of unique and
revealing scenes of everyday life that are interspersed
among the battle scenes, including market scenes,
cockfighting, chess games and childbirth. Also note the
unfinished carvings on other walls, likely indicating
the death of Jayavarman VII and the subsequent end of
his building campaign. Some of the reliefs on the inner
walls were carved at a later date under the Hindu king
Jayavarman VIII. The surrounding tall jungle makes Bayon
a bit dark and flat for photographs near sunrise and
sunset.
Beng Melea
Early 11th
Hindu
Sprawling jungle temple covering over one square
kilometer. The temple is largely overrun by vegetation.
Constructed in a distinctly Angkor Wat style, Beng Melea
preceded and may have served as a prototype of sorts for
Angkor Wat. Very few carvings or bas-reliefs are evident
and may never have existed. When the temple was active,
the walls may have been covered, painted or had frescos.
In its time, Beng Melea was at the crossroads of several
major highways that ran to Angkor, Koh Ker, Preah Vihear
(in northern Cambodia) and northern Vietnam. Regular
admission ticket not required but there is a separate $5
entrance fee. Beng Melea is located 60km east of town
and requires an arduous 3-hour journey to get there. The
area has only recently become available to visitors,
being demined just last year. Poor roads through
beautiful countryside, and lack of visitors at the
temple give the trip a real expedition feel. Graded dirt
road with occasional flooding in the rainy season.
Consider contacting a tour guide that specializes in the
distant temples such as Terre Cambodge.
East Mebon
Late 10th
Hindu
Jayavarman IV, a usurper to the throne, moved the
capital from Angkor to Koh Ker in 928AD. Sixteen years
later Rajendravarman II returned the capital to Angkor
and quickly constructed East Mebon on an island in the
middle of the now dry Eastern Baray. The temple is
dedicated to Shiva in honor of the king’s parents.
Inscriptions indicate that it was also built to help
reestablish the continuity of kingship at Angkor in
light of the recent interruption when the seat of power
had been moved to Koh Ker. There seems to be some
scholarly debate as to whether East Mebon should be
categorized as a temple-mountain. Inscriptions record
activity at the temple as early as 947AD, but East Mebon
was not consecrated until 952AD.
Kbal Spean
11th - 13th
Hindu/Buddhist
A river of 1000 lingas’ is at Phnom Kulen. There are
also carvings of Buddha and Buddhist images in the rock
that date from a later period than the lingas. Entrance
to the area closes at 3:00PM. Combine with a visit to
Banteay Srey and allow a half-day for the two. Take the
road straight past Banteay Srey about 12km. Look for the
sign and parking area on the left side. Requires a
moderately easy 45-minute uphill walk though the woods.
Neak Pean
Late 12th
Buddhism
When constructed, this small island temple was located
in the middle of the last reservoir (baray) to be
constructed by a Khmer king in the Angkor area. The
small central temple sits in the center of a cross or
lotus pattern made up of eight pools. At time of
construction, the temple was called Rajasri but took its
modern appellation, Neak Pean, which means ‘coiled
serpents’, from the encoiled nagas that encircled the
temple. The temple is faced by a statue of the horse,
Balaha, saving drowning sailors. Neak Pean may have
served an absolution function, and the waters were
thought to have healing properties. During the dry
season when the water is low, check out the animal and
human headwater spouts at the outside center of each
pool. Neak Pean is most photogenic in the wet season
when the pools are full.
Phimeanakas
Late 10th - Early 11th
Hindu
The king’s temple or royal temple. The lack of surviving
carvings leaves it artistically uninteresting, but it is
the tallest scalable temple in Angkor Thom, providing a
nice view from the top. The western staircase (at the
back) is the most easily ascended. Legend has it that
the golden tower crowned the temple and was inhabited by
a serpent, which would transform into a woman. The kings
of Angkor were required to make love with the serpent
every night, lest disaster befall him or the kingdom.
Phnom Bakheng
Late 9th - Early 10th
Hindu
The construction of this temple mountain on Phnom
Bakheng (Bakheng Hill), the first major temple to be
constructed in the Angkor area, marked the move of the
capital of the Khmer empire from Roluos to Angkor in the
late 9th century AD. It served as Yasovarman I's
state-temple at the center of his new capital city
Yasodharapura. The foundation of Bakheng is carved from
the existing rock edifice rather than the laterite and
earthfill of most other temples. Bakheng's hilltop
location makes it the most popular sunset location in
the area, offering a view of the Tonle Sap Lake and a
distant Angkor Wat in the jungle. Often overcrowded at
sunset. Elephant rides up the hill are available.
Phnom Kulen
9th
Hindu
This is where the 500-year long Age of Angkor began.
Phnom Kulen is the mountain on which Jayavarman II
initiated a royal 'god of the king' linga cult in 802AD,
declaring a unified and independent Cambodia under a
single ruler. Soon after, he moved his capital from
Kulen to Roluos where it was to remain for almost a
century before moving to the Angkor area. Several sites
including hundreds of linga stands in the Siem Reap
River. Waterfalls and active pagoda. It’s a bit over 50
km each way from Siem Reap so set aside at least a half
day for the trip there and back. Regular admission
ticket is not required. There is a separate entrance fee
of $20 for Phnom Kulen.
Prasat Kravan
Early 10th
Hindu
Reconstructed, unique brick towers containing large wall
sculptures of Vishnu and Lakshmi in the brick.
Originally constructed by a nobleman rather than a king.
Reconstructed by archaeologists in the early 20th
century. Look for modern replacement bricks labeled
"CA". Photographically better in the morning with the
light on the front of the towers.
Pre Rup
Late 10th
Hindu
Architecturally and artistically superior
temple-mountain. Beautifully carved false doors on upper
level, as well as an excellent view of the surrounding
countryside. Traditionally believed to be a funerary
temple, but in fact the state temple of Rajendravarman
II. Historically important in that it was the second
temple built after the capital was returned to Angkor
after a period of political upheaval when the capital
had been moved to Koh Ker.
Preah Khan
Late 12th
buddhist
Preah Khan is a huge, highly explorable monastic
complex. Full of carvings, passages and photo
opportunities. It originally served as a Buddhist
monastery and school, engaging over 1000 monks. For a
short period it was also the residence of King
Jayavarman VII during the reconstruction of his
permanent home in Angkor Thom. 'Preah Khan' means
'sacred sword.’ In harmony with Ta Prohm, which was
dedicated to Jayavarman VII's mother, Preah Khan is
dedicated to his father. Features of note: Like most of
Jayavarman VII's monuments, the Buddha images were
vandalized in the later Hindu resurgence. Some Buddha
carvings in the central corridor have been crudely
carved over with Bodhisattvas, and in a couple of odd
cases, a lotus flower and a linga. Also note the
cylindrical columns on the building west of the main
temple. It is one of the only examples of round columns
and may be from a later period..
Roluos Group
Late 9th
Hindu
The Roluos Group is a collection of monuments
representing the remains of Hariharalaya, the first
major capital of the Angkorian era Khmer Empire. It has
become known as the ‘Roluos Group’ due to its proximity
to the modern town of Roluos. The ancient capital was
named for Hari-Hara, a synthesis of the Hindu gods Shiva
and Vishnu. Though there was an existing settlement in
the area before the rise of Angkor, Hariharalaya was
established as a capital city by Jayavarman II and
served as the Khmer capital for over 70 years under four
successive kings. Setting the pattern for the next four
centuries, the first great Khmer temples (Bakong, Preah
Ko, Lolei - see listings) and baray (reservoir) were
constructed at Hariharalaya. The last king at
Hariharalaya, Yasovarman I, built the first major temple
at Angkor, Phnom Bakheng, and moved the capital to the
Bakheng area in 905 C.E. With the exception of a 20 year
interruption in the 10th century, the capitol would
remain at Angkor until 1422 C.E. 12km (20 minutes) from
Siem Reap.
Lolei
Late 9th
Hindu
Roluos Group: An island-temple consisting of four brick
towers on a double laterite platform. Located in the
center of the first large-scale baray constructed by a
Khmer king. The last major temple built at Roluos before
Yasovarman I moved the capital to the Angkor area.
Though the towers are in poor condition, there are some
good lintel carvings, which display the distinctively
detailed Pre Ko style. An active pagoda has been built
amongst the ruins. Of the Roluos group ruins, allocate
the least time for this temple. See ‘Roluos Group’.
Preah Ko
Late 9th
Hindu
In the
Roluos Group. One of the first major temples of the
empire at the early Khmer capital of Hariharalaya. Preah
Ko (Sacred Bull) derives its name from the statues of
bulls at the front of the central towers. Many of the
carvings are in very good condition providing excellent
examples of the deep, vivid Preah Ko style Khmer art.
Also see ‘Roluos Group’
Bakong
Late 9th
Hindu
Roluos Group: The most impressive member of the Roluos
Group, sitting at the center of the first Khmer capital,
Hariharalaya. Bakong stands 15 meters tall and is
650x850 meters at the outer wall. Constructed by the
third Angkorian-era king as his state-temple, Bakong
represents the first application of the temple-mountain
architectural formula on a grand scale and set the
architectural tone for the next 400 years. The temple
displays a very early use of stone rather than brick.
Though begun by Indravarman I, Bakong received additions
and was expanded by later kings. The uppermost section
and tower may have been added as late as the 12th
century AD. Some of the lintel carvings, particularly on
the outer towers, are in very good shape. Picturesque
moat and vegetation surround Bakong.
Srah Srang
Mid 10th and Late 12th
Buddhist
Picturesque Baray
opposite the east entrance of Banteay Kdei. Originally
constructed by the same architect that built Pre Rup.
Remodeled in the 12th century as part of Jayavarman
VII's massive building campaign. The very sparse remains
of an island temple can be seen in the middle of the
lake during the dry season when the water is low. Srah
Srang offers a pleasant, much less touristed, sunrise
alternative to Angkor Wat.
Ta Keo
Late 10th - Early 11th
Hindu
Towering but plainly decorated temple-mountain dedicated
to Shiva. Known in its time as ‘the mountain with golden
peaks.’ The first temple to be constructed wholly of
sandstone. Constructed as a state-temple by Jayavarman
V. Unlike previous kings, he built Ta Keo outside of his
main capital area. Many Angkorian temples are partially
unfinished, but Ta Keo seems to have stopped
construction particularly early in the decoration phase
of construction, as there are very few carvings. Ta Keo
is an interesting temple well worth a visit, but if you
are pressed for time, see Pre Rup instead.
Ta Prohm
Mid 12th - Early13
Buddhist
Of similar design to the later Jayavarman VII temples of
Preah Khan and Banteay Kdei, this quiet, sprawling
monastic complex is only partially cleared of jungle
overgrowth. Intentionally left partially unrestored,
massive fig and silk-cotton trees grow from the towers
and corridors offering some of the best ‘tree-in-temple’
photo opportunities at Angkor. Flocks of noisy parrots
flit from tree to tree adding to the jungle atmosphere.
Ta Prohm is well worth an extended exploration of its
dark corridors and open plazas. This temple was one of
Jayavarman VII's first major temple projects. Ta Prohm
was dedicated to his mother. (Preah Khan, built shortly
after Ta Prohm in the same general style, was dedicated
to Jayavarman VII’s father.) Ta Prohm was originally
constructed as a Buddhist monastery and was enormously
wealthy in its time, boasting of control over 3000
villages, thousands of support staff and vast stores of
jewels and gold. Of the monastic complex style temples,
Ta Prohm is a superior example and should be included in
almost any temple itinerary.
Ta Som
Late 12th
Buddhist
The most distant temple on the grand circuit. Small
but classic Jayavarman VII temple consisting of a
relatively flat enclosure with towers much like the
temple Ta Prohm on a much smaller scale. The execution
of the apsara carvings is better than many late 12th
century works. Many of the carvings show an uncommon
individuality in the faces and bodies. Face towers on
the gopuras. A huge tree grows from the top of the east
gopura. It is destroying the gate but it is a photo
classic. It is best photographed in the early morning
when the sun is low from the outside of the enclosure.
Currently undergoing renovation.
Terrace of the Elephants
Late 12th
Buddhist
Impressive, two and a half-meter tall wall spanning the
heart of Angkor Thom in front of Baphuon and Phimeanakas.
Carved elephants and giant garudas adorn the wall.
Constructed in part by Jayavarman VII and extended by
his successor. The wall faces east so the best lighting
for photography occurs before noon. The Terrace of the
Leper King is at the north end of the Terrace of the
Elephants..
Terrace of the Leper King
Late 12th
Buddhist
A double terrace at the north end of the Terrace of
Elephants with deeply carved nagas, demons and other
mythological beings. The terrace was named for the
statue of the leper king that sits on top. Why the
statue is known as the 'leper king' is less clear. Some
argue that when the statue was found, its lichen-eaten
condition gave it the appearance of leprosy. Others have
argued that it is a statue of the leper king of Khmer
legend, or that the condition of the statue inspired its
connection to the legend. The model for the statue is
also a matter of debate. Suggestions include a couple of
different Hindu gods, and the Khmer kings Yasovarman I
and Jayavarman VII. Recent scholarship favors a
combination of Jayavarman VII and Buddha. The statue of
the leper king on display at the terrace is a replica.
The original resides in the National Museum in Phnom
Penh.
|